Le fin

So it would appear I have been a tad remiss in posting to the blog. I will readily admit that, while it started off as a bit of fun (the blog), it has become a touch of a chore. I would like to say that I have been so busy that getting time has been a problem. And there is unbelievably an element of that. I would also like to claim writer’s block, but that would seem to be a bit grand when in fact I generally just couldn’t be arsed to get the old laptop out.

After I last posted, Joanna and I celebrated our silver wedding anniversary on the 18^th July. Some would see the 1,881 miles separating us at that point as somewhat of an impediment, but I felt as close as ever to her, lying on the beach and contemplating our years together. Not so sure about Joanna’s view here, slaving away with the NHS in damp Belfast. However, I did get a friend to deliver flowers and a card! Not wanting to appear too flippant, we will have a full family do when Maeve comes home from America.

So the sailing continued slowly – for 3 or 4 days there we couldn’t get out because of the high winds (I hadn’t thought the after-effects of that Mexican meal I had would last that long). Anyway the trusty Markus felt that it would be dangerous to go out, not only due to the winds, but there were also waves about 2 to 3 metres high. However, Friday the 20^th was my last day in Naxos, so  despite the weather still being on the cusp of “dangerous”, we ventured out. Spent a couple of hours sailing (please read as “hanging on for dear life”) with Markus, another spell out with Sascha (who himself is a trained catamaran instructor) and a final goodbye-trip out with both Sascha and Sophia. Exhilarating stuff in the higher winds, riding the crest of a large wave for hundreds of yards and hanging off the side of the boat.

On top of this, the last few days on Naxos provided the opportunity for a few lovely meals out in the town with meine kleine Deutchlanders (which they reliably informed me that the way I pronounced this translated directly as “my little sausages”)!

So early Saturday morning saw me on the ferry off to Paros – only an hour and a half away. I had no room organised here, so I subjected myself to the scrum of guys on the quay offering accommodation as we disembarked. Wanted to stay in a town called Naoussa, and got this organised handily enough. Paid €40 a night for the room but I reckon if I were of the bargaining kind I could have got this considerably cheaper. They reckon the tourists are down about 50% on last year.

Anyway the choice of Naoussa was a great one. Typical meandering little Greek alleys, all blue and white, with a huge array of non-tacky shops, bakeries, coffee-shops,  ice-cream parlours, small bars all leading down to the harbour where the restaurants were situated. Great fish – which was fine by me.

Octupuses (seemingly octopi is an incorrect plural here – always good to learn one useful fact in a day) drying outside one of the local eateries on Naoussa. 

Took a wee boat off to the other side of the bay for Saturday afternoon. The boats go hourly and well worth it to get to the better small beaches.

On the Sunday I made the expedition to a nearby island – Antiparos. This was a great wee trip – 2 rickety bus journeys, a boat across to the island, followed by a further bus trip which circumnavigated the island, allowing me to pick the most attractive stopping point. Loads of lovely spots on this very quiet island, so the trip was again worth it.

And that was my last full day. No need to bore you with details of the ferry back to Athens and flight home (apart from the fact that the woman beside me on the flight offered me a piece of Kitkat  - and I realised this was the first piece of chocolate/sweet I had had in over 3 weeks – unbelievable for those that know of my proclivity for such things).

So, on a serious note – what did I take from “The Odyssey”?

·       I did learn that while I can suffer my own company, I would in future prefer to travel with others.  I’m definitely glad I did the trip alone, as it was something I always had in the back of my mind – but now I’ve done it and got it out of my system.

·       I learnt that simple iPhone apps are straight-forward to create – the process is relatively easy to follow. However, anything of consequence would take considerably more work/investigation.

·       I learnt that I miss my family if separated for too long.

·       Too much time for thinking can be a dangerous thing, but I handled it!

·       Germans can be extremely nice – this was probably the most shocking discovery.

·       And I certainly learnt that the journey itself can be more important than the destination – and sure that’s the whole point of an odyssey!

So it ends!

Auf Wiedersehen und gute nacht           

A year older

So I did chance a beer on my birthday, and there were fireworks. The 2 were not related. Actual fireworks. I had got used to people celebrating my birthday when in France (it happens to be Bastille Day as well, but that’s by the by). But now the Greeks have got in on the act. I don’t know who tipped them off that it was my birthday, although, me being me, I did let it slip an awful lot in conversations. Anyway – had a fine birthday. My 2 young German mates paid for dinner at a Mexican place in the town. Marguerittas and all! Prost to Sascha and Sophia.

Unfortunately I missed daughter Moya’s birthday yesterday, but in order to mark it I decided no alchohol would pass my lips for the day (the first such day of the long and arduous trip). And I succeeded. It’s just one victory after another!

The days here just run into one another. A touch of Groundhog day about it, but in good way. 7 of my 10 sailing lessons completed, with no human sacrifice to date. Today we capsized the boat (deliberately) a couple of times, and this was the one exercise I was dreading. However, managed to right the thing. Confidence is coming. Mainly down to my instructor Markus. Another German guy. Late 20’s – he won’t commit to how late, and a recently qualified teacher (which might indicate that he took a somewhat leisurely path through his university career). He feels he is not quite ready to teach yet and he needs “more of a story to tell”. So this sailing instucting thing is to fund his quest for deeper knowledge in a round-the-world trip. I would hazard that he’s a bit of a hearth-throb (I wouldn’t be an expert in spotting such) so I would have some concerns about the stories that the up and coming wunderkids in Germany might be subjected to. Anyway, a good guy. I even bought him a beer last night and some would say that such actions wouldn’t be natural for me!

So we carry on – I’m going to stay on Naxos for a few more days past the end of the course and get in a spot more sailing. Young Sascha is a qualified catamaran instructor himself and despite being on holidays, he is going to chance the seas with me.

The Hornet's Nest

 So I got stung by a hornet yesterday. And that’s not a euphemism for being badly beaten by the Germans at sea. Although had there been any Germans on the sailing course, I fear I may have been well thrashed but thankfully I was the only one to put out to sea. But back to the hornet. I was actually stung. It may have been somewhat down to a faulty choice of my own in trying to kill the thing. But still, you don’t expect that sort of reception from the locals as you prop up their flailing economy.

Anyway, first sailing lesson down and wasn’t so bad – but I can’t remember a thing re the names for all the parts of the boat and Markus (my instructer) will no doubt be examining me sternly tomorrow in lesson 2, him being German as well. “Schnell, schnell Neil vas is dis. Dis ist der rooder”. That’s the one I can remember – rudder! I guess because I liked the way he said it. Why can’t they just talk about left, right, front, back, small sail, big sail???

After finishing sailing, I met meine kleine deutschlanders – young Sasha and Sophia on their way to partake in a windsurfing trial. They had kindly adopted me at the BBQ the previous evening. I guess they being the youngest couple here (by a distance) and me being a sad lonely old git, together we looked somewhat more like the tight family units that seem to make up the guest-list here. Anyway that’s my take on it as opposed to them felling sorry for me!

So I went along to see how embarrased they might be by the windsurfing lark, as they had never tried before. I had been thinking of doing it (it’s free, and you know me!!) so I thought this might give me some indication. They were in with a bunch of kids but they unfortunately seemed to survive. Not so sure I will.

Today I took a bike (a bicye, not a moped) and trekked across to the next bay, about 10k. With one climb that I dare say would be classed Category A in the Tour de France. Must have gone on for all of 400 metres, with no respite. Well, there was respite for me as I stopped half way up for a drink and walked another part – but that was still a major feat in the searing heat. Once I breached the peak it was all downhill, strangely enough. It appeared easy thereafter so I kept going for some miles to find a suitable snorkelling-spot – which I did. Hadn’t countered in the wind direction mind you – when will I learn! Major effort to get back. But here I am. 

First app written – see below. John, once I get this up on the app store and  the advertisers come flocking in, I think you can rest assured that it’s easy street for the 2 of us.

Birthday tomorrow – might have a beer.  

A week gone

Well I’ve lasted a week! I waved farewell to Diarmuid and Miriam on Monday, so I’m on my own again. This probably doesn’t bode well for the content of the blog, given the whims of fancy I took off on when last alone – and that was only for a day! However, I will endeavor to keep on track and not stray off into the dark recesses of my innermost thoughts. So a big thank-you to D&M for providing the best of introductions to the Cyclades with their vast experience of the island of Amorgos.

I had yesterday (Tuesday 10th) to myself on the island. Remained relatively sane and managed to get in the three must-do’s that I had missed out on – a spinach pie for lunch (delicious), a Gyros for dinner (traditional kebab-like meal – also delicious) and watched the movie Le Grand Bleu (The Big Blue for those who were only educated in the ancient classic languages) in a pub/eaterie that shows it on an outdoor screen every evening (delicious yet again but I did have ice-cream at the same time).

Then at the skrake of dawn I got the ferry to Naxos and this is where I sit. It would be a tad more touristy but I’m somewhat isolated from that as I’m staying in a hotel/sports club from which the sailing lessons are run. Just been for a cycle into the town – returned completely drenched. I feel I will not be signing up for the mountain bike treks they conduct every day.

The sailing lessons start tomorrow – on a Hobie-cat, a small catamaran. This is exactly what I wanted – need to get to a point where I feel I could control one of these before heading off into Dawros Bay in Donegal again. The last time I did this was with a certain Brendan Monaghan. I thought he knew something about sailing (you’ld think to look at him that he should) and he thought I did. We did manage to control the thing going out, and could quite happily traverse parallel to the beach all day. Which we just about did, as we were completely unable to come back to shore against the wind. We pretended this was exactly what we intended but night was drawing in. Eventually, and to the unremitting hilarity of both our families on the beach, we shamefully jumped off and with heads bowed swam back towing the thing behind us – with Monaghan doing his Stan Laurel impression and quoting “this is another fine mess you’ve got me into, McQuillan”. We haven’t really been let forget that. Fear not Brendan, never again!

The worrying thing is that I met 2 Germans (it seems to be a German run and populated establishment – slowly taking over Greece – again) who are also on the Hobie-cat course (it’s mostly wind and kite-surfing here). These 2 were nice - Sasha and Sophia - but before anyone gets too concerned, Sasha is male! Their main concern was that they might appear a tad old on the course. Given that they were probably 21 or so, I fear I might be in with some group of young Aryan “vunderkids”.

However, the last time I took on a German in the water was in what was meant to be a gentle flotilla of 2-man canoes paddling leisurely down the Loire for an afternoon, but which I managed to transform into an Olympic mega-event exhorting Conor for 2 hours to “Pull, for f*cks sake, pull). And that turned out well with the fat six foot six kraut and his little blond-eyed beauty of a son trailing in behind us. I’m reasonably sure he was aware it was a competition. I was obviously delighted with the result. Joanna, not so much. Nor Conor. Some very sore muscles for days afterwards. Anyway, it bodes well for tomorrow's battle.

Seem to be more mozzies here. I miss Joanna. They have an affinity for her, which generally speaking means they leave me alone while on holiday. Of course, this is obviously not the only reason I miss her. Apropos of nothing in particular, it’s very hard to get the suncream onto certain areas of one’s own back.

So a BBQ on the beach tonight, but will take it easy in preparation for what lies ahead.

Well we seem to have internet connectivity established again. I am able to write this blog stuff, thanks to one John Halligan, who kindly donated me his old (and very heavy, I have discovered) Macbook. One of the goals I set myself on this journey was to teach myself how to write apps for iPhones, iPads etc. John’s only proviso in providing the laptop was the he get a “significant” share in the vast profits he believes will be forthcoming from this enterprise. I did try to tell hm that I am solely interested in the process, not actually intending to write any apps beyond the simplest “Hello world” variety ….. but hey-ho. Anyway, to date I have been sidetracked by beaches, swimming, snorkeling and eating. But who knows – I may get around to it – I did bring a very big text book with me!
 

So, I have been informed by a number of people that the previous edition of the blog was neither appropriate nor informative. On second perusal I would perhaps have to agree and have made a deal with myself to remain completely sober before putting finger to keyboard. So here goes, without even a beer for lunch, with a more informative section.

I did arrive on the island of Amorgos eventually on 4th July at 8:21 pm. I had set off on a fast ferry from the port of Piraeus (the port of Athens) at 7pm that morning. This got me into Naxos at 12 noon. There I dined in style on a greek salad that came with no olives. There was plently of feta cheese but seriously!

Anyway, I then got the very inappropriately named Skopolitis Express ferry at 2pm. This put in mind of the old buses going around rural Ireland that would stop at every corner on the road - it left at 2pm on a 6 hour journey, calling into every little island port on the way to load/unload tourists, locals, chickens and goats – and every type of produce/product imaginable from olives and tractor tyres through to water melons and monster fridges. I had been advised by my friends Diarmuid and Miriam to sit on the top deck at that back of the boat and be royally entertained by the activitity at each little minor pier that we called at. This I did – and it was the best €11 I have ever spent. From little old women struggling with 60 inch televisions while the local mousthioed yahoos looked on while sipping their evening ouzo and smoking incessantly, through to a huge shouting match between 2 guys trying to get off the boat quickly and the local gestapo. It was hard to work out but I’m fairly sure it involved some animal they had in the back of their van. It looked like it was developing nicely, with a genuine hope of at least fisticuffs as it continued all the way up the pier but we unfortunately headed off to sea at his point.

So eventually I approached Amorgos, to see the aformentioned Diarmuid and Miriam waving frantically at the end of the pier, and brandishing a beer for my singular delectation. Great to be here.

Checked into room, small but adaquate with a great balcony. A quick bite in Alex’s resturant and then whisked off to D&M’s friend Jorgos (unsure of spelling) who runs a very good restaurant with much shouting and gesticulation. It was his birthday to which we had been invited. Mojitos were the order of the day.

 Next morning, not so good but sure I’m on my holidays – a good sleep-in. Off on a boat that dropped Miriam at a beach on the other side of the bay. It was her job to beat the germans to the few umrellas and sun-beds and this she managed due to a beautifully crafted plan, which would have put the Blitzkrieg operation to shame. Diarmuid and myslef continued on with only 2 swedes for company on the boat to a natural rock shelf way further round. The swedes disappeared on disembarkation – we suspected they were of the nudist variety and had second thoughts about sharing the same small piece of rock with an over-weight, balding, slightly reddened Irish man ….. and myself. Anyway, we got the better of our natural tendecies and let them go. Stayed here for an hour or so – great snorkelling etc. The boat, then returned and picked us up to rejoin Miriam for the day.

Yesterday we rented a car and explored the whole island, about 40 miles long – calling into a number of lovely little coves etc. Also called at this monastory - http://www.europeupclose.com/article/monastery-of-hozoviotissa-amorgos-greece/ - .T_g3GnBTdCE -which featured in the film “The Big Blue” (filmed almost completely on the island). Then ate in our man Jorgos’ restaurant. He isisted that we have steak or liver (we had both!) from an Amorgos cow that he had had butchered. I only saw 2 cows on our travels, so I think this was a big thing. The meal was monstrous but delicious, and then be brought us out his mum’s special recipe dessert - involved quince but I don’t remember much more than that.

Today – taking it easy – big swim and snorkel this moring – down for a beer at the port around 6 to watch the boats come in and we’ll see where that takes us.

Not so sure I like this more infomative format – but sure let us know.

So it would appear these Greek chaps have been at this “odyssey” business themselves. Met some local know-it-all as I was sipping a beer a mere 10 minutes after decamping in the port of Piraeus. He was insinuating that they have laid claim to this odyssey idea for some considerable time now. Oh for a classical education!

Which, as an aside (I am told I tend to, somewhat annoyingly, do this “aside” thing – as, I suppose, is further evidenced by this little bracketted snippet), I actually did receive at the hands of a certain Fr. Lehane, Latin and Greek, (rumour would have it that other boys received more at the hands of the same Father – the joys of attending boarding school. Fortunately I was a second-class day-dog and, not having to stay overnight, missed out on these benefits).  I do still retain a full recall of many of the things he hammered into us (educationally speaking). Gallia in tres partes divisa est (Latin) - Gaul is divided in three parts, the ancient Greek alphabet - alpha, beta, gamma, delta, epsilon (Greek, obviously) etc. (Latin – I think), ad infinitum (also Latin). All the useful stuff, but I certainly have no recall of an Odyssey …. or an Iliad …. and the local joker then attempted to say that this was all the work of some Homer guy! That’s when I knew he was pulling my mickey (back to good old Fr. Lehane – pronounced Lehaan – important further down). At home due to my occasional grumpiness, consistent intransigence and ability to constantly get myself into somewhat embarrassing situations, they would refer to me with the name of the actual famous Homer - of Simpson’s fame. How this greasy Greek got hold of this wee titbit of information is beyond me, but there’s no doubt he played one card too many with this “Homer” business. 

However, before I realised he was merely having a laugh, it had got me to thinking, for fear of plagiarism, I would have to rename the blog – NeilsWeeTrip or “The diary of Neil McQuillan 42½”. Fortunately I believe we can leave it as is.

Writing this on the ferry out to Naxos on my first day here (don’t know when I’ll get it posted as a tad concerned re what levels of internet connectivity are going to be available). I realise that my musings here have little to do with the actual holiday per se (there’s that education thing again). I suspect somehow that this is going to be the way of things – who wants to hear about the great views, the snorkeling, the food, the people. Much better, I’m sure you’ll all agree, the rambling flights of fancy of a currently unemployed (Kevin* - you could get to work on that aspect of things), slightly lost, middle aged fool pretending he is 25 again. 

On that note I’ll sign off as we appear to be approaching port with a ditty I just made up on the central character of today’s wanderings (and recall the pronunciation tip from above):-

There was a filthy old priest called Lehane

Said he’d do what he did when he can

If, in the desk, you’ld move over

And his “language” discover

He’d alpha-beta you into a man

---

* Kevin, for those of you who don’t know him, is my pimp

Ok folks - head off on this (foolish?) journey tomorrow. Haven't done this blogging thing before but the idea is that it may keep me grounded - I am at least familiar with a keyboard, whereas nudist beaches, 24 hour night clubs and class A drugs heve not usually been my scene.

And nor will they be, Joanna.  

So we'll look to use this blog business as I head off on my quest for inner peace on the islands of Greece.

That'll do for today but, dependant on internet connectivity, I'll look to provide some coverage of progress.

(Colour and font utilised here, purely for the delectation of one Barry Millar)